Drip edge is installed under the ice and water at the eaves and on top of the ice and water and underlayment on the rakes. Ice dam protection at the eaves. Well, your roof and the home under it need the same kind of protection that an ice and water protector is engineered to provide.
This thin, self-adhering membrane is the next component and it gets installed over the drip edge. Ice dam formation is best prevented by having a proper attic vapor barrier, adequate attic insulation and thorough ventilation ; however, an ice protection membrane is a wise roofing system component and is likely required by your local building code in cold climates. At this time, any valleys on the roof should also be flashed with an ice and water membrane.
Why an ice and water protector? Because these membranes work on the principle that their rubberized asphalt coating seals around the shanks of the overlying shingle fasteners, adding an extra degree of water-shedding protection. Underlayment for overall secondary roof protection.
Both offer you peace-of-mind protection beneath the shingles. While the asphalt shingles will be the primary water-shedding roof layer, there are many benefits to installing a roof underlayment. Remember that drip edge we installed at the bottom of the roof? Although this seems to contradict the overlapping principle, installing the drip edge over the underlayment at the rakes creates a clean roof edge and provides the underlayment attachment with increased resistance against wind uplift.
Also, any wind-driven rain blowing on the rake edge would cross the top flange of the drip edge and go on top of the underlayment instead of beneath the underlayment where it could potentially cause a problem. Covering the joints and valleys. If a roof is going to leak, it will most likely occur wherever the shingle layer is penetrated, interrupted or meets a wall.
These are the special areas that require flashing — an added layer of water-shedding material to help keep the water running downslope. Valleys can either be open or closed — open valleys are not covered with shingles, closed valleys are. If your roof will have open valleys, which IKO recommends, now is when the valleys should be lined with a pre-formed width of corrosion-resistant metal. Closed valleys are completed during shingle installation.
For longer roof performance, IKO strongly recommends open metal valleys. Complete the application of underlayment and valley flashing before the roofing shingles are applied. The recommended flashing material is a gauge galvanized metal or an equivalent corrosion resistant, non-staining material check with local codes. The product is tacked in place temporarily along one edge. Carefully peel away the backing, and put it in place, smoothing out any wrinkles.
Remove the temporary nails. Install metal flashings where shingles meet walls or chimneys , too. Ice and water protector membranes work well to flash and help protect around skylights, dormers , turbines and other tricky roof areas. Apply flashing materials in concert with the shingle installation procedure , with both the flashing and the shingles arranged to work together to protect around the joint areas. Finally, the preparation is over, you can now install the shingles.
The shingles need to be offset in every space, so there are no valleys or blank spaces where a leak will start. The first is to apply an approved underlayment over the old shingles. This means less time will be spent on the overall.
Install the metal edging around the entire perimeter of the roof. Start on the lower edge of the roof, install the starter shingles by nailing them down using roofing nails.
Then work your way up to the top or center of the roof. Install another set of starter shingles at the sides of the roof, ensure the two sets overlap. The installation of metal roofing is often easier and faster than other roof types, and because of its simple design and generally large size, can actually be installed directly on top of existing roofing materials like asphalt shingles and foam roofing.
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Previous Post Previous. Cut your starter-course shingles if necessary. If you are making your own starter shingles, cut the tabs off for the "starter course" bottom row of shingles. To prepare the tabs and lay the starter course, shorten the first starter shingle by 6 inches or about a half of one tab. You will shingle over this starter course, so the bottom course will be double thickness. Instead of cutting off all three tabs, you can also reverse the shingles for a starter course so that the entire shingle with tabs turned upward are under your first course of shingles.
With either method, putting the solid edge at the drip edge and cutting 6 inches off the length of first starter shingle prevents the slots between the tabs from lining up with the first regular course laid over the starter, thus not to expose the asphalt roofing paper through the slots of that bottom row. Nail the shingles with no tabs, such as precut Pro-Start shingles, [6] X Research source and apply asphalt cement from a caulk gun in many dots along the drip edge under the edge, then press the tab-less shingles down onto the line of asphalt cement dots with adequate spaces between the dots.
A continuous bead of asphalt could trap condensation or windblown water under the roofing at some point. Cut five different lengths for staggering slots. To make sure you've got the right sizes to lay courses correctly, cut several sizes of shingles from the three-tab variety you purchased. Cut off one-half tab-width of the first tab to start the first course. Keep all scrap, especially any single tabs for use on the ridge cap shingles.
Make the following cuts: Cut a half tab off for your first course shingles, Cut off a full tab for your second course shingles Cut one and a half tabs off of your third course shingles, Cut two tabs off your fourth course shingles For your fifth course, cut off half of the final tab Keep your sixth course tabs intact. Start laying courses. Nail the "cut off shingle" into place, about 6 inches from its lower edge. Hammer in one nail about 2 inches from each end of each shingle and another nail about 1 inch above each cutout.
Make sure to keep nails out of the tar strip as you work. The next shingles above should cover the nails by about 1 inch vertically. Be sure that these nails will hold the top edge of the course of shingles immediately below. Put a full shingle up against the cut shingle and nail into place. Repeat this basic pattern, alternating shingles across the roof, working toward the right side, using the chalk line to keep the shingles straight horizontally.
Use 4 nails per shingle and 6 nails on the prevailing windward sides of the roof, as wind resistance nailing. Some local codes require the 6 nails on all sides. Cut the last shingle to the size you need when you reach the end of the row. You can let the excess extend off the side end of the roof and trim it down after it is nailed on, if you like.
Continue this process to the 5th row then begin the same process as the first row beginning with a full shingle and a chalk mark. Repeat all of the way to the ridge. If it is a hip roof, allow about a tab width to overhang onto the next section of roof at the hip to help strengthen the joint there. Part 3. Install the last course.
Bend the last course of shingles over the ridge, up to about 6 inches, and nail it onto the other side so that the roofing extends over the top of the ridge, where nails will be covered, leaving no exposed nails.
However, do not do this if a ridge vent system is being installed as well. Nearly all modern roofs use ridge venting — the sheeting stops short on each side. End your final shingle row here, using the hook-blade for cutting. To cover the ridge, install vented cap shingles or continuous ridge vent. Bend single tabs or special ridge shingles over the ridge, beginning at the end putting a bead of asphalt under the first ridge shingle to hold down the tab.
Nail it where the next ridge shingle will cover the nails about an inch horizontally and vertically. Install the ridge shingles. With the asphalt granules exposed, across to the other end, nail the shingles on both sides of the ridge as before. Cut off the asphalt nail line from a ridge shingle when you get to the other end. Apply a heavy bead of asphalt cement. Dot the cement under and around the edge of the last ridge shingle where you removed the nail line.
Nail at the four corners to the end of the ridge and add a little dab of tar to cover the nail heads. Also apply asphalt cement over the nail heads exposed on the last ridge shingle to prevent water leaks. Did you know you can get expert answers for this article? Unlock expert answers by supporting wikiHow. David Bitan. Support wikiHow by unlocking this expert answer. Not Helpful 0 Helpful 0. Not Helpful 0 Helpful 1. Mark Spelman Construction Professional.
Mark Spelman. Not Helpful 3 Helpful Not Helpful 4 Helpful Not Helpful 7 Helpful Not Helpful 25 Helpful Not Helpful 9 Helpful Not Helpful 26 Helpful Include your email address to get a message when this question is answered. Before you begin to install the asphalt shingles, spread the bundles of shingles out over the roof so work will flow continuously.
Helpful 0 Not Helpful 0. There is a smaller dashed line of stick down spots which is not ever covered by plastic tape that helps at the edge of shingles, but the main sticky strip is 2 or 3 times bigger, thus stronger and always needs to be uncovered! Helpful 1 Not Helpful 0.
Some experts will tell you to begin in the middle in a pyramid and work both ways which allows two shingling workers to work on that same section to achieve a more balanced look.
Either way is fine. The roofing "felt" paper is asphalt impregnated material that acts as additional waterproofing. There are also "non-tabbed" shingle with laminated layers for a simulated wood shingle look that are, obviously, not "3 tab" but still require cutting to 5 different lengths for staggering the slots.
On steep roofs, toe-steps should be nailed to the roof with metal strips holding the toe-steps, to keep you and supplies in place -- as well as using safety ropes and a harness.
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